Onsen Etiquette in Japan: A First-Timer's Guide

Soaking in an onsen (hot spring) is one of the most relaxing things you can do in Japan. It is also one of the easiest places to accidentally break a rule, simply because nobody explains them. This guide covers what actually happens inside a Japanese bathhouse, step by step.

1. Yes, you bathe naked

Swimsuits are not allowed in almost all onsen. Men and women bathe in separate areas, marked by curtains: 男 (blue, men) and 女 (red, women). The colors are reliable even if you cannot read the characters.

You will be given (or can rent) two towels:

• A large towel for drying off — this stays in the changing room.
• A small towel (about the size of a hand towel) — this goes into the bathing area with you.

2. Wash before you soak

This is the single most important rule. The bath is for soaking, not cleaning.

1. Sit on one of the small stools at the washing stations.
2. Use the shower or the bucket to rinse your whole body.
3. Wash with soap and shampoo (provided at nearly every onsen).
4. Rinse all the soap off completely before entering the bath.

Do not stand while showering — the spray will hit the person next to you.

3. What to do with the small towel

• Never put it in the water.
• Most people fold it and place it on their head, or leave it on the edge of the bath.
• It can be used to cover yourself while walking between the washing area and the bath.

4. In the bath

• Enter slowly. The water is usually 40–43°C (104–109°F).
• Keep your hair out of the water (tie it up if it is long).
• Talk quietly. Onsen are relaxed but not silent.
• No swimming, no splashing, no phones or cameras.
• If you feel dizzy, get out. Ten to fifteen minutes at a time is plenty.

5. Tattoos

Many traditional onsen still refuse entry to guests with visible tattoos, because of the historical association with organized crime. The situation is changing, but it is not resolved. Your options:

• Search for tattoo-friendly onsen — a growing number welcome tattooed guests, especially in tourist areas like Hakone, Beppu, and Hokkaido.
• Cover small tattoos with waterproof skin-tone patches (sold at drugstores and many onsen front desks).
• Book a private bath (kashikiri-buro) — many ryokan offer rooms with a private open-air bath, where no rules about tattoos apply.

6. After the bath

• Wipe yourself down with the small towel before walking back into the changing room, so you do not drip on the floor.
• Drink water. Onsen dehydrate you more than you expect.
• The bottle of milk or coffee milk sold at the exit is a genuine tradition. Try it.

Quick checklist

Where to try it

Onsen towns like Kinosaki, Kusatsu, Beppu, and Hakone let you hop between several public baths in one evening. Save the route in tabilogue and follow it on the day.